The dawn chorus happens in Campania just like at home. I got out of bed to look at the lights on Sorrento but they had mostly gone and the silhouettes of the Lattari mountains were already emerging as features against the lightening Neopolitan sky. At this time the remaining town lights looked more industrial than a twinkling romantic backdrop.
This is our last full day in Italy and the plan is to catch the bus to Positano. There is a stop outside the hotel but the manager told us the bus was usually full by then so we are walking into town to board at the station. You can’t buy tickets on board the bus. These have to be purchased at a “tabac”. We tried this yesterday with no success but were directed to one nearer the bus station which was a little further on in the wrong direction so we parked it for the next day.
At six o’clock in the morning sorrento is already getting noisy. Some sort of machinery has just started up. Can’t see what it is but imagine a road sweeper making its way towards you getting louder by the minute. Or some sort of powered saw. Reminds me of the man sanding the decking of his outside restaurant furniture. We passed him on Monday and he was still at it the next day. Getting ready for the busy season ahead. Lots of noises coming now from the harbour. Beeping sounds of a reversing truck. A scaffold being dropped. A man’s voice calls out, the Italian for woah. Twice.
A pastel pink vapour trail reveals itself against the pale blue sky. Don’t think it really came from a plane. A long streaky cloud more like. Certainly going in the wrong direction for the airport. Feels as if a coffee would be appropriate but that would involve waking up THG which would not be right, I’d quite like to pop up to the terrace. In fact I have.
From here I can see an emerging Vesuvius. The furniture is still too dewy to sit on so I’m on an oversized plastic blue chair just inside the doorway. It’s more of ` sculpture than a chair. This hotel is a design marvel. It is like living in an art gallery. Wonderful. Unfortunately the next time we come, in May, we are downgrading to the Hilton as it is the venue of the conference I am organising.. Don’t get me wrong. The Sorrento Hilton is a nice hotel but it isn’t La Minervetta.
Sounds emerge from the kitchen. The rattle of ice. Crockery. The night porter has just delivered me a steaming mug of hot, black coffee, totally unasked. This is what we call service. He also turned over the cushions on an outside armchair so that I can move out onto the terrace. God I’m going to miss this hotel. We still have one more night.
Just noticed an aircraft flying in the same direction as the vapour trails but much higher. Perhaps they were vapour trails. Just ones that have sunk lower with time. Makes a lorra sense to me. Out here everything is now in colour. Except Vesuvius which has kept its sinister dark tone, almost ethereal through the morning haze.
Lively music has appeared. Jolly stuff in keeping with a bright breakfast mood. Abba. Dancing Queen. Not too intrusive. There is nobody else around. Just me, the band and the night porter who has gone back to the kitchen. The food here, they only do breakfast, is stunning. Just picture the absolute best of everything. Makes you realise that the breakfast juices served up at the Rome hotel were just out of a carton which I probably already knew.
My Merlin bird app didn’t recognise any of the birds. It had a stab at a robin but there were others. Perhaps they were too far away. It’s too lake now, what with Abba and a car repeatedly beeping its horn. It’s only six thirty eight for goodness sake. Abba have moved on “Gimme gimme gimme a man after midnight”. Must be the night porter’s fave band 🙂 Not me love. I’d be fast asleep by midnight. No use to you whatsoever.
After lunchtime today we are booking our entertainments for Hay on Wye. We joined at some lowly membership level that allows us access to tickets before the great unwashed if you can use that description for the trendy Guardian reading middle class punter that attends the festival. I don’t have a problem with it meself. I’m not really that interested in most of the talks. It’s all about people trying to flog their book. Lots of politics, morals and philosophy.I particularly have no interest in the fiction. How can anyone be interested in someone describing in great detail how they came up with the characters of the main people in their book. Also people ask some really wanky questions designed more to demonstrate their deep knowledge of the subject under discussion than to increase the body of human knowledge.
I do have my eye on a poetry session and a master class in barbecue cooking that includes eating two courses of assorted proteins that you’ve seen cooked in front of you. Fifty five quid but it is dinner and ninety minutes of entertainment. Hopefully there will be beer involved. Seems right with a barbecue.
The terrace is warming up now that the sun is actually visible. THG is awake but has not yet responded to my offer of a pot of tea. There is no rush.







Back on the terrace with a beer and some free crisps. The beer was not free and easily covers the cost of the crisps. It’s cooled down a little so I’m wearing one of my heavy flannel shirts that almost serves as a coat, or certainly a fleece. Had a nice bus day out with THG. We actually made the bus at Sorrento train stayshun with only a minute to spare. There were only a few seats left and the back seat was the only place we could sit two of us together. That suited our rebellious schoolkid natures.
The ride to Positano was a roller coaster which I enjoyed and was far cheaper than paying to go into a theme park. Really I’ver commented on the trip in video format on Facebook so don’t feel like repeating myself in writing. Sufficed to say you don’t need more than a couple of hours to “do” Positano.
Back in Sorrento I bought three lemons for three euros. It was the right thing to do. The lemons here are whoppers. The area is famous for them. Limoncello and all that. I don’t mind a bit of Limoncello on occasion but it is usually only something you get as a freebie at the end of an Italian meal, or sometimes a curry. Don’t think I’m going to bother buying any. Might well get some duty free gin though.
The suitcase is laden down with olive oil, vinegar, cheeses, sun dried tomatoes and coffee. Some of the coffees are available in Waitrose but none of the rest. Gotta take advantage of being here. I am mostly already packed. On our recent trip to Spain I added 10kg to the weight of the suitcase by packing simlar local produce and also some brandy. Won’t be buying Italian brandy (grappa) in the duty free. I’m thinking we might plan an olive oil and vinegar tasting session at ours sometime soon. One of the vinegars was 50 years old. Might have been 40. Can’t quite remember from the perspective of the terrace and a bottle of Giulia craft beer – Italian Pale Ale.
For our last night we are off to a restaurant very near by called Taverna Sorrentina. It styles itself as a cocktail bar/gastro pub/taverna. Looks fine. Don’t think it is quite as posh as it likes to make out but tbh we are after simple fare after a week or more on the dining out trail. I might push the boat out on the plonk seeing as it is our last night. Otherwiser it could well be a simple pizza or a burger. I realise pizzas are a classic Italian dish but they don’t do them spicy enough for me. I like a bit of zing in my pizza. Chillies with spicy meats. Lots of spicy meats. They are a bit more circumspect here.
Vesuvius across the bay has maintained its somnambulent state. Dormant. An evil monster biding its time. Its reawakening will be global news. The sound of children playing on the beach rises up from the port. It isn’t much of a beach. Not one that will attract sunbathers in my mind.
Now playing some Pink Martini on the Bang & Olufsen bluetooth speaker in the room. Just another reflection of the serious quality of this hotel. Amado Mio. This was playing in the cafe in Positano. Just fits the area. Love me forever, and let forever begin tonight.
The mountains this evening are not silhouettes. You can see their stratification in detail. Many houses built into the hills. Great views but not particularly accessible.
Now playing Una Notte in Napoli. What’s not to like?

